Cement every time, nothing worse then getting your old movie out and having it fall apart evey third edit. You are 'committed' but only a frame each way and very few cuts need to be frame accurate. (I'm gonna get some flak now! )
Hi,
I work with super 8 film and have always used a super 8 tape splicer. I've always hated that little glitch that occurs when the tape goes through. Its not horrible but it still distracts from a good film. I also fear that the tape will break over time or get stuck in the projector. Do cement splicers fix this problem? What are the pros and cons of each type of splicer? I'm kind of afraid to cut my films up because I hate splices.
Please give me feedback!!!
Noah
Cement every time, nothing worse then getting your old movie out and having it fall apart evey third edit. You are 'committed' but only a frame each way and very few cuts need to be frame accurate. (I'm gonna get some flak now! )
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Most of the time, I'd agree with you, but there are 2 major exceptions:Originally posted by Skyliner:
"... very few cuts need to be frame accurate. (I'm gonna get some flak now! )
1. Action cuts, where you have quick cuts, some as little as 2-4 frames.
2. If you lose frames from re-cutting later, your audio is now going to be out of sync by the amount of frames you lost, and suddenly it's Godzilla out of sync movie!
Matt Pacini
HI,
so when a cement splice goes through a projector does is just look like you never cut the film (meaning, it doesn't flick at all- its completely smooth like it was edited-in-camera)? How easy/quick is it to make a cement splice? What is the process? What kind of cement splicer and cement should I get that is quick, easy, and good. I don't think i'm too too worried about losing a frame when splicing.
thanks for the help,
noah
I use a cement splicer now, and I love it, although you really are committed once you make a splice.
If you're going to use tape, I suggest the Hervic splicer & tapes.
They only cover one frame on each side of the cut, unlike the Kodak ones, which cover 2 frames and are always visible.
Also, have a bottle of film cleaner and lens cloth handy when you make tape slices, and wipe both sides clean, and put the tape on the second it dries off.
As you're aware, the hair & lint make the cuts much more noticable.
And over time, all tape splices are going to get brittle.
Matt Pacini
Oh, I forgot.
The bad thing about tape splices that NOBODY EVER MENTIONS, is that they cause a slight "bump" when going through telecine machines.
It's even worse, because the spot where it hits the roller isn't right where the cut is, so it actually jumps about 1/2 second before the cut, kind of a like a warning to the audience that a cut is about to take place!
Sucks, huh?
Matt Pacini
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You could try a Bolex splicer. It involves scraping on both emulsion and base sides making a cement splice with nearly the same thickness as the film. When done correctly they will go through any decent projector with no noise and no loss of focus.Originally posted by nstout:
Hi,
I work with super 8 film and have always used a super 8 tape splicer. I've always hated that little glitch that occurs when the tape goes through. Its not horrible but it still distracts from a good film. I also fear that the tape will break over time or get stuck in the projector. Do cement splicers fix this problem? What are the pros and cons of each type of splicer? I'm kind of afraid to cut my films up because I hate splices.
Please give me feedback!!!
Noah
LPL also made a cement splicer that came with a base side scraper. I notice that on ebay many are missing this vital piece.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Look above for cement splicers I recommend. Cement splicing requires lots of practice. Get a junk film to practice with. The amount of cement used as well as amount of scraping is something you'll get the feel for with time. Also make sure to brush off all dust after scraping.Originally posted by nstout:
HI,
so when a cement splice goes through a projector does is just look like you never cut the film (meaning, it doesn't flick at all- its completely smooth like it was edited-in-camera)? How easy/quick is it to make a cement splice? What is the process? What kind of cement splicer and cement should I get that is quick, easy, and good. I don't think i'm too too worried about losing a frame when splicing.
thanks for the help,
noah
Good 'bevelled" cement splices should go through most projectors with little noise, no loss of focus and you should'nt "see it" on the screen. I still recommend the best projector you can afford as I find they handle ANY kind of splices better and have better optics etc...
I would guess it would depend on what projector you're going through as to how much, if at all, a cement splice is going to bump, but I'm pretty sure you won't see it.
Even if you do, I can assure you, it's not gonna be as bad as a tape splice!
I got a Bauer splicer, and it's really a nice one, although there are many, many splicers out there.
Kodak makes the cement.
You'll want some junk film to experiement with, because it's a bit tricky at first, but you'll get the hang of it quickly.
Basically, you're scraping off some emulsion from the surface of the film, applying just a teeny bit of cement, then pressing the two pieces together.
It's very quick, and the splicers are set to do all this: cut, scrape, and hold the film into place while it dries.
Maybe 30-60 seconds or so for the whole process for each cut.
And they'll last forever. In fact, the splice is probably stronger than the rest of the film!
Matt Pacini
hey thanks,
i'm a little worried to buy one from ebay (which is where I usually look for stuff) because of what you said about ebay one's often not coming with a scraper or something. I work with 16mm film and have actually recovered some of my grandma's reg. 8 film, so i'm looking for one that will do all 3 if possible. I found no bolex or LPL one's on ebay. I found this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4790
but don't know if that would be good.
thanks,
noah
p.s.- what is a hot splicer used for?
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